Happy With Fratelli

The food: tantalizing. Char grilled halibut, cooked to a flaky perfection––two hefty cuts stacked and parched atop a bed of pink rhubarb compote. A moat of olive oil casts out from beneath the pink isle, spanning out to the ridges of the plate’s brim. Roasted sprigs of asparagus drape over the white tower of halibut. This is an explosion of flavor in your mouth. The earthy asparagus and smoky halibut paired with the silky sweetness of rhubarb compote create the perfect balance between sweet and salty. And the textures lilting throughout your mouth… Oh! Your tongue will be such a happy camper!

Another great dish: House-made pappardelle cooked al dente, bathing in the juices of red wine braised beef and truffle oil; pieces of hazelnut laced throughout. A very pleasing dish. You wont regret this one, either.

Allow me to rewind back to a few of the appetizers. Order the crostini with chicken liver mouse. This is delicious. Three mouse shmeared crostinis are plated atop a uniquely flavored mix of pickled julienne vegetables. I can’t be sure of what they were, however. It might have been red bell pepper and parsnip. The flavoring reminded me of pho. My only nag would be the texture of the crostinis. They may have been a tad too toasted. They weren’t as hard as biscotti. But they were pretty darn hard. I would still recommend trying it, however. Then chicken liver mouse is wonderful. I wouldn’t order the couscous. Boring. But I would order, over any other appetizer, the nettles; braised in duck confit with plump chunks of pancetta, splashed with a balsamic-like vinegar called Saba, and sprinkled with pine nuts. Perfect-o.

Fratelli is little Italy in Portland. Simple Italian fare derived from locally sourced and seasonal ingredients. It’s farm to table. Delizioso!

But here’s what I really wanted to say about the whole experience: The space Fratelli occupies is very reminiscent of true Italian restaurants. And most European shops for that matter. It’s narrow from side to side and looong in length. Just like a shoebox. High ceilings. Cement walls. Exposed wood ceiling beams. Open kitchen. Wood burning oven. Rustic wooden tables. Floor to ceiling windows at the front of the restaurant creating just the right amount of airiness. And a few oriental rugs sprawled out across the cool cement floor. It’s sophisticatedly cozy.

The wait staff is great, too. Please, go!